Dolomites Alta Via 1

The Dolomites are located at the eastern end of the arc formed by the Alps.  They occupy a part of northern Italy that is called the South Tyrol and, up until WW I, was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  Much of the population here remains, to this day, German-speaking and more Austrian than Italian in culture.  

These mountains are like no other I have ever seen.  Anywhere.  I might go so far as to say that they are the most beautiful mountains I have ever seen.  Their dark gray limestone peaks rise up steeply from verdant valleys.  They do not follow the system of parallel valleys and associated ridge lines that you see throughout most of the Alps.  Instead, they consist of dozens of mountain groups that are scattered around in a helter-skelter fashion.  I call them cookie drops because they remind me of a baking sheet full of uniquely-shaped, randomly-arranged chocolate chip cookies waiting to be popped into the oven.

This is a climber’s paradise and is known for its numerous vie ferrate which are rock routes aided by fixed metal ladders and cables.  The mountaineers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries installed these fixtures to give them easier access to the most challenging peaks.  Fortunately, for those of us who are hikers and not mountaineers, there are long-distance hiking paths that crisscross the Dolomites in all directions and at varying levels of difficulty.  Alta Via 1 is the most famous of these and the most achievable for the average walker.  It helps to have a head for heights in these mountains but the Alta Via 1 can be hiked without encountering much exposure.  The same cannot be said for the Alta Via 2 or any of the other long-distance routes in the Dolomites.

One final point to make about this route.  The Dolomites are very popular and this hike is the most popular of the region.  You must make reservations a good deal ahead of time for all the huts.

Tofana di Rozes

Day 0      Cortina d’Ampezzo

This picture postcard town in the heart of the Dolomites is a famous ski and summer resort for upper-class Italians.  That means it’s expensive but well worth it due to its stunning surroundings, charm, and numerous eye and pallet-pleasing shops.  Good luck trying to find reasonably-priced accommodations in town.  I can recommend the comfortable and clean Hotel Villa Gaia just a kilometer from the town center.  Ristorante Pizzeria Ariston across from the main bus terminal provides a satisfying and affordable dinner.

Day 1     San Uberto to Rifugio Scotoni  

My preferred start for this hike is different from the classic Alta Via 1 itinerary which starts at Lago di Braies and takes two days to get to Rifugio Scotoni.  The section at the north end is more arid and rocky than many parts of the Dolomites and I consider it to be the least appealing section of the tour.  It also requires a couple hours hiking on a jeep track with jeeps passing by every so often shuttling hikers to the end of the track.  Of course, you can hire a place on the jeep shuttle yourself at Rifugio Pederu which will take two hours off your walking time on day two.  I don’t want to make this route sound like a terrible option because it is not.  It allows you to experience a rugged part of these mountains that many people find enchanting.  If you choose to follow the classic itinerary, take the bus from Cortina to the lovely Hotel Lago di Braies.  Hike from there to Rifugio Sennes the first day and on to Rifugio Scotoni the following day.

Rifugio Scotoni

My suggested route the first day leaves from San Uberto, a little stop on the road just north of Cortina (an easy 15 minute taxi ride).  You spend the first couple of hours walking through the gorgeous Valle di Fanes with the sound and occasional views of the Rio di Fanes off to your right.  The path then climbs slightly and joins up with the standard Alta Via 1.  Although this is not a terribly demanding day, don’t become too complacent during the first part.  At the end of the day you will have to drop steeply and then come back up to reach your final destination.  It’s always disheartening to have to lose a few hundred meters of elevation at the end of the day when you know your hut is up and not down.  There is another more direct route to Rifugio Scotoni which avoids this descent but has its own challenge in the form of a steep and less stable path.  Take your pick.  I prefer the former.  Your reward at the end of the day will be the sight of the charming Rifugio Scotoni sitting in a green open area with the dramatic Cime di Fanes as a backdrop.  I love this hut.  It is almost like being in a little mountain inn.  Be sure to book ahead for a private room with extremely comfortable beds.  The food is hearty and delicious.

Day 2     Rifugio Scotoni to Rifugio Nuvolau

Hiking up to Rifugio Nuvolau

Today’s hike is a wonderful combination of rocky, almost lunar landscape and forested trails.  You will be doing a bit of uphill without much descent as I strongly recommend you take the dramatic gondola ride down from Rifugio Lagazuoi to Passo Falzarego about halfway through the day.  I could say this for each day’s hike but today is truly a day where you want to have good weather.  Take the time at Rifugio Lagazuoi to have a cappuccino and take in some of the most beautiful views of the entire Dolomites range.  After the ride down you will cross the road and begin another ascent to your bed and dinner for the night at Rifugio Nuvolau.  This is one of the most unique huts in the Dolomites (or anywhere for that matter) and not to be missed.  You will have a hard time believing its location as you approach this old stone building perched atop a rocky crest.  For the second time today, weather permitting, enjoy one of the best viewpoints in the Dolomites region.  Nuvolau is small and very basic so don’t expect the luxuries you had at Scotoni.  But with the right attitude you won’t care.  All you will notice is the old-fashioned charming ambiance, the food, and the stunning scenery.

Day 3     Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Staulanza

Yesterday was the day of dramatic viewpoints.  Today is my favorite overall day of hiking of the Alta Via 1 because of the views and variety of terrain.  The day is long but not extremely demanding in terms of ascent or descent.  You wander up and down and around magical terrain filled with green pastures, steep rocky peaks, dramatic cliff faces, and soft, quiet forest.  Most of your fellow hikers will be aiming for Rifugio Citta di Fume one hour before Rifugio Staulanza.  Citta di Fume is strategically located and mentioned in many guide books and it does indeed make for a more reasonable stage.  But I’m not a fan.  The beds are terrible and the food is below average.  If you can, make the extra effort to reach Forcella Staulanza and its eponymous hut.  You will be rewarded with a little more luxurious lodging.

Day 4     Rifugio Staulanza to Rifugio Tissi

Today is yet one more beautiful day of hiking in paradise, especially the latter part of the day.  You will pass by Rifugio Coldai which makes for a good lunch stop if you didn’t happen to bring your own picnic supplies.  Soon after Coldai you approach the sheer north wall of Monte Civetta.  The sight is overwhelming.  In fact, I get so excited when I see it again after a long absence that I stand on the trail with arms raised and loudly call its name in a very bad, heavy Italian accent.  Yes, my friends scurry to get as far away from me as they can.  At the Forcella di Col Rean you will branch right (slightly off the main Alta Via 1) to reach Rifugio Tissi.  This is a large comfortable hut that serves good food.  The best thing about it, though, is its five star location.  No matter how tired you are after today’s hike, you must make the extra 15 minute walk back behind the hut to the sheer drop off overlooking the Alleghe valley.  Approach with caution however as there is no railing keeping you from a very long fall.

Overlooking Alleghe valley from Rifugio Tissi

Day 5     Rifugio Tissi to Rifugio Carestiato

Today’s route starts out in a southerly direction and takes you along side more of the sheer north face of Civetta.  You might be able to spot climbers making their attempts up this dramatic wall.  Two hours of walking brings you to Rifugio Vazzoler at the base of an entirely different side of Monte Civetta.  Stop for a short break to enjoy a tart and the wonderful view of Torre Venezia.  Continue on to the comfortable Italian Alpine Club hut called Carestiato.

Day 6     Rifugio Carestiato to Rifugio Pramperet

Today you pass through the pastoral Passo Duran very soon after the start of your day and then you begin to enter into a new region.  You will notice the remoteness and wildness of the area as you continue your hike the next two days.  After Passo Duran you, unfortunately, do a couple of kilometers of road walking before you rejoin the trail.  You are now approaching the Tamer/San Sebastiano group.  Just before reaching Rifugio Pramperet you reach Forcella Moschesin and magnificent views in all directions.  Your final destination is the basic Rifugio Pramperet in its quiet and lonely setting. 

Day 7     Rifugio Pramperet to La Muda

The hiking after Pramperet is the wildest and loneliest-feeling of this southern section of the AV1.  The terrain is not what I call beautiful but it is fascinating.  You pass through an other-worldly landscape of rock and scree as you approach the Schiara group.  The official route would have you continue past Rifugio Bianchet and traverse the Schiara.  But this requires a night’s stay at a bivouac, a very basic shelter without guardian or meals.  This would be quite tolerable for one night.  The much more significant consideration, though, is that continuing on requires tackling the very steep and exposed Via Ferrata del Marmol.  I have never hiked this section but it is supposed to be sensational if you have the skill and inclination.  I don’t have the inclination so our route instead heads to Rifugio Bianchet and down a forestry road to the hamlet of La Muda.  Here you can catch the bus to Belluno.

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