Dolomites Alta Via 2

 
The Alta Via 2 (AV2), like its big sister the Alta Via 1, traverses the length of the Dolomites from north to south.  It passes through some of the most well-known and distinct mountain groups in the region such as the Marmolada and the Sella.  The AV2 is slightly more remote and rugged than the AV1 and involves some short sections of via ferrate.  It also invites fewer crowds as there are not as many trail sections with easy access for day hikers.  The scenery for both is nothing short of spectacular, but if you desire a slightly more challenging route with fewer hikers, the AV2 might be the one for you.

Grupo Marmolada

 
Day 0     Bressanone

Bressanone (also called Brixen) is a charming town in which to begin your hike.  Small enough to be quaint but large enough to have good food options and all the services you could desire, including easy access via train.  If you can stay the required minimum of three nights and you want a combined lodging and culinary experience, book yourself in at Gasthof Haller.  It is a lovely place with excellent food just out of town in the vineyards of Bressanone.  For something more affordable, go south of town a couple of kilometers to find the comfortable and clean Gasthof Tauber.  I am a big fan of AirBnB so I also have to mention a little bargain place called In der Muhle that caught my eye on AirBnB.  It is a very simple but cozy-looking mill room located on a farm 1-2 kilometers out of town.  I’ve never stayed here but I’d give it a try if I had the chance.

 Day 1     Bressanone to Rifugio Genova

Take the Plose cable car just above Bressanone to save yourself about 1000 meters of less-than-exciting climbing to get out of the valley.  I encourage you to take one of the first lifts available in the morning.  This is not an extremely hard day but it is not short either.  Give yourself the time to enjoy the walk and, hopefully, avoid any late afternoon thunderstorms that might stir.  Arrive at the very large but very inviting Rifugio Genova which was originally built in 1898.  Don’t worry.  It has been added to and renovated more than once resulting in a classic Dolomites hut which is almost like a basic mountain inn.  You have your choice here of private double rooms or dormitory.

Day 2     Rifugio Genova to Rifugio Puez

You are now walking in the direction of the beautiful Parco Naturale Puez-Odle.  This nature park has been designated a UNESCO world natural heritage site.  The layers of the dramatic line of limestone peaks show the complete evolution of the Dolomites.  Today’s route takes you via the Forcella Della Roa to the Italian Alpine Club hut, Puez.  This is a basic but totally satisfactory hut situated in a high desolate landscape.  Less than an hour from the beginning of this hike is a trail intersection which gives the opportunity to take a variant from the primary route.  Instead of continuing south, the variant drops west towards Rifugio Brogles, skirting the precipitous needles of the Odle group.  Both routes offer stunning scenery, with the variant covering a bit more distance as it takes a wide swing around the Odle.

View from the Sella Group

 
Day 3     Rifugio Puez to Rifugio Pisciadu

You’ve been hiking on a unique and wonderful section of Dolomites trail which has taken you through notches and gaps and close to granite peaks, all the while affording you amazing views of neighboring massifs.  You have already encountered short sections of via ferrate.  Hold on to your hat.  It is about to get more dramatic today.  One and one half hours after leaving Rifugio Puez, at Passo Di Crespeina, you have a wonderful view ahead of the distinctive Sella massif.  Some Dolomites massifs are not so easy to recognize and name but there is no mistaking the Sella.  I think it looks like a very large, somewhat flattened birthday cake.   It is hard to imagine but a trail (and a very popular one at that) does reveal itself later in the day which leads to the top of the cake.  Hopefully you are not hiking this section on a weekend or public holiday as you could even encounter a line of people waiting to ascend the rocky canyon and metal ladders.  You finally arrive at Rifugio Pisciadu with its stunning location and warm hospitality.  You don’t want to miss this hut.  Nor do you want to miss the short walk from the hut (less than 20 minutes) to a small but dramatically situated suspension bridge spanning a chasm.  This bridge is one of the final parts of famous Via Ferrata Tridentina, an alternative but more exposed route to Pisciadu.  

Rifugio Viel del Pan

Day 4     Rifugio Pisciadu to Rifugio Viel del Pan

Today you walk through an other-worldly rather barren landscape as you cross the top of the Sella.  It is immediately clear that the “birthday cake” is not at all flat and smooth but instead filled with crevasses and rocky hillocks.  Pass by Rifugio Boe and on to Rifugio Maria which is a slight detour off the main AV2.  Here you can catch the cable car and effortlessly descend to Passo Pordoi.  Continue on past the road at the pass for about an hour to reach privately owned Rifugio Viel del Pan and enjoy the luxury of another wonderful Dolomites hut.  If your luck holds and you have good weather, you will be more than pleased with the views of the Marmolada, to say nothing of the private rooms and food.

Day 5     Rifugio Viel del Pan to Rifugio Falier 

A little more than an hour’s walk takes you to Rifugio Castiglioni and its lovely setting along the Fedaia Lake.  If you are equipped with the gear and the expertise, there is a climber’s variant which now crosses the Marmolada glacier and continues down the back side of the massif.  But the primary AV2 route takes us trudging along a road to Malga Ciapela. Or save yourself the footsteps and catch the Dolomiti Bus at Rifugio Castiglioni.  Malga Ciapela is the base of a three-stage cable car to the top of the glaciated Marmolada.  It could be worth an overnight stay here to take the fun and interesting ride to the top, especially if you need a break from your hiking routine.  Otherwise, continue the day’s journey with an ascent to Rifugio Onorio Falier.  This hut is a slight detour from the main AV2 and is not known for its luxuries.  I recommend it because it is off the beaten tourist path and you get to experience an old, original stone hut built in 1911 that is still primarily used by climbers.

Day 6     Rifugio Falier to Rifugio Fuciade

This stage is not a long one but it is dramatic.  Almost immediately upon leaving the hut you begin to ascend the Passo di Ombretola.  Enjoy the views of the south and less photographed side of the Marmolada and notice the approaching massif, the grand Pale di San Martino.  You have a fairly steep descent ahead but, fortunately, part of it is on loose scree slope.  I say fortunately because, if you like, you can hasten and soften the descent by bounding down this section, digging in your heels and sliding a little as you go.  Soon you will see wonderful Rifugio Fuciade below.  This is my favorite place to stay of the entire Alta Via 2.  You feel the warmth and charm as soon as you walk in the front door.  A private room with comfortable beds and hot shower awaits you.  Most importantly, the food is fantastic.  I will never forget one year here meeting and subsequently hiking with a family of four (and their Portuguese Water Dog)  from the Czech Republic.  It was less than a year after the fall of the Soviet Union and they had driven from Prague to northern Italy to celebrate and experience their new found freedom.  It was their first time to travel in Western Europe as a family and it was a delight to be around their wonderful energy and enthusiasm.  

Hiking towards Rifugio Mulaz

Day 7     Rifugio Fuciade to Rifugio Mulaz 

You start with an easy stroll down a dirt lane to the road at Passo San Pellegrino.  You are now crossing into one of the most rugged ranges of the Dolomites, the Pale di San Martino.  The upcoming stages are wonderful but also exposed at times and not recommended for the inexperienced hiker.  If you want to avoid the exposed but aided sections, skirt around part of the Pale by leaving the trail at Forcella Venegia for Passo Rolle and then rejoining the main route at Rifugio Rosetta.  Hopefully you are hiking at a time when the Margherita Cable Car is open for the summer and you can travel with ease up the 600 meters to Col Margherita from Passo San Pellegrino.  You descend from the col down to Passo Valles where you might want to stop for a drink or a snack at pleasant Rifugio Passo Valles.  Do not linger long as you have another 3-3.5 hours of challenging hiking ahead of you.  The end of the day brings you to very basic Rifugio Mulaz with dormitory spaces for 65.  One year along this stage we came upon the most amazing sight.  As we contoured around a very steep section of mountain, we noticed around two dozen moving figures on a high slope just across the valley.  There was still quite a bit of snow at high elevations and we were delighted to see that they were enjoying themselves immensely by sliding down a long snow patch and then running back up to do it all over again.   Again and again they reveled in this activity and, at first, we couldn’t figure out who they were.  We thought it must be a group of kids that were part of an organized hiking trip.  But upon further study we realized that they were not people at all but chamois who were playing.  Simply playing.  I have never seen such a sight in all my years of hiking in the Alps and I don’t imagine I ever will again.   

Day 8     Rifugio Mulaz to Rifugio Pedrotti

Today’s hike requires a steady head but, fortunately, the most exposed sections are equipped with cables and handrails. After some effort across a barren boulder strewn path, you reach Passo dell Farangole, a mere notch in the crest, but also the highest point of the Alta Via 2 at 2932 meters. The last time I hiked this stage the area still had plenty of snow which made the going tricky. Your final destination is Refugio Pedrotti, a large Italian Alpine Club hut which has been renovated but still maintains its old alpine charm. One kilometer from the hut is a cable car which descends to the wonderful and chic little town of San Martino di Castrozza, just in case you feel the need for some higher end Italian food or shopping. There is also a nice hut at the upper cable car station called Rifugio Rosetta.

Awaiting my turn to hike up to Passo delle Farangole. Two friends ahead on the snow.

 
Day 9     Rifugio Pedrotti to Albergo Cant del Gal 

Another challenging section of path is ahead of you as you hike towards Rifugio Pradidali.  The old refuge outfitted inside with dark timber is full of character and worth a stop.  Its setting is spectacular and you can reward yourself with a bowl of hot soup.  Our route will now vary from the main AV2 to take a gentler path down through Val Pradidali to the road on the main valley floor (Val Canali).  Allow yourself a pat on the back and a big smile as you approach Albergo Cant del Gal.  This is your home for the night and it is hard to get much better than this little mountain inn.  It will cost you a touch more than you have been spending these last 8 days but I don’t think you will bat an eyelash.  There is a bus from here that you can catch the next day down the valley to Mezzano.

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