Tour of the Stelvio

If you love all that is Italy, as I do, you will love this circuit in northern Italy very close to the borders of Switzerland and Austria.  Not many Americans have ever heard of the Stelvio, the largest of Italy’s national parks, or of the grand mountains called the Ortler-Cevedale Group that comprise its nucleus.  Not even many European hikers are familiar with this area, save for the Germans and the Italians themselves.  All the better for those of us choosing to hike here. As in many parts of the Alps, the scenery is amazing.  As is less and less the case for many parts of the Alps, the Stelvio still has a good deal of glacier coverage in its middle section.  You will have the opportunity to enjoy some charming Italian villages, some in the southern valleys that are culturally Italian and some in the northern valleys that are culturally, gastronomically, and linguistically more German. There is no guide book author who is more knowledgeable about hiking in Italy, including the Stelvio, than Gillian Price. Her books are the resources I turn to for any Italian hiking trip.

Approaching the Stelvio Pass

Day One     Passo del Tonale to Rifugio Bozzi

There is nothing very appealing about the little road town of Passo del Tonale so why would I recommend this as a starting point when the charming village of Bormio could be your access point for the tour?  The main reason is simply that Passo del Tonale is at a relatively high elevation for your first climb up and is easy to reach by train and bus from Milan, whereas Bormio is a bit more out of the way.  The other reason is that it is nice to reach the luxury and comfort of Bormio part way through your circuit after several days of hard hiking.  Today is a fairly short and easy stage which is a good way to begin to get your muscles in shape for the mountains.  Climb the 600 meters to the very modest but welcoming Rifugio Bozzi.

Day Two     Rifugio Bozzi to Cogolo

Your descent is pleasant and not too steep as you head towards the lake of Pian Palu.  You are walking through a region which saw battle during WWI and some constructions and trenches are still visible.  You pass by Rifugio Fontanino which is not really a hut but a restaurant.  You then have to do about 4 kilometers of paved road walking to reach the small spa resort of Peio Fonti.  If you wanted to spend an extra day in this area, there is a cable car that runs out of Peio Fonti which gives access to a nice day hike with wonderful views of the peaks of the neighboring Adamello Park.  Another bit of walking (or the bus if you time it just right) takes you to the pleasant village of Cogolo.  Stay at Hotel Biancaneve at the northern end of the village.  Some of the rooms are a little rough around the edges (meaning in need of renovation) but it is a warm and welcoming hotel.  The best value is to ask for half board and eat dinner there as well.  They have a large salad bar and the servings are generous.

Day Three     Cogolo to San Bernardo

Today is a wonderful day of hiking across the Paso Cercena to the beautiful Val di Rabbi.  This is a popular Stelvio valley for tourists wanting to stay a few days or a week to enjoy the hiking, the spa at Bagni di Rabbi, and the surroundings.  Your ascent is long but not terribly difficult and your views at the pass will be your reward.  You pass the Malga Cercena (malga means mountain barn in Italian, often for summer grazing of animals) on your way down.  The day we hiked this stage was cold and rainy.  We noticed a couple of SUVs and some activity around the malga so we ducked in to warm our hands and see what the stir was about.  The shepherds and cheese makers were actually having a most informal tasting for a few of the buyers from the area.  A group of ten very jovial men invited us in without hesitation and plied us with their cheese and dry white wine.  We were more than happy to take advantage of their hospitality for 45 minutes or so as we dried out and waited for the rain to abate.  Walk to the first village you reach in the valley, Bagni di Rabbi, and catch one of the buses that runs further down the valley.  Your destination is Albergo Miramonti in San Bernardo, just 2-3 kilometers away from Bagni.  This is a nice family-run hotel in a tiny little village.  Definitely ask for half board because the food here is tasty and there aren’t too many other options close by.

Val di Rabbi

Day Four     San Bernardo to Rifugio Dorigoni

There are a few different ways to swizzle your itinerary to get to the next valley, the Ulten.  You could catch the bus (or stick your thumb out) up to the hamlet of Piazzola and hike onward through the Paso di Rabbi.  This makes for a very long day.  You could also take this route and stay a night at Rifugio Lago Corvo which you reach just before the pass.  But the best route for overall beauty and for the hut you wouldn’t want to miss is to follow the Sentiero degli Alpinisti to Rifugio Dorigoni where you will spend the night before continuing on the next day.  Start by taking the bus up the valley to its final stopping point at Somrabbi.  Then take your time and enjoy yourself.  The day’s hike is short and so enjoyable.  You will hopefully have great weather enabling you to enjoy a picnic lunch along the way.  Rifugio Dorigoni is one of those gems that you still find in the Italian Alps from time to time.  It doesn’t look like much as you approach from the trail but the inside of the old, well-maintained stone building has an atmosphere that is unpretentious and warm.  There is no road access and all power is provided from the fast moving stream nearby.  What makes it particularly special, though, is the family that has so lovingly cared for it for decades.  The hut guardianess greeted us in full traditional Tyrolean dress and served a lovely, tasty dinner.

Church in St. Gertraud

Day Four     Rifugio Dorigoni to St. Gertraud

Today’s hike will take you into the lovely and tranquil Ulten Valley, one of my favorites on this tour.  The  inhabitants here have chosen to maintain some of their traditional ways of life instead of cluttering their pastoral surroundings with ski lifts.    The first part of the hike is a gently ascending trail that leads you over a ridge about 400 meters higher than the hut.  You encounter a relatively short section that is exposed (not terribly so) and requires focus, so do not take this route in bad weather.  Enjoy your descent, wild at first and then encountering more and more day hikers as you reach the Weissbrunn Lake.  You have now entered into the more culturally German area of the Stelvio and you’ll notice a lot more gross gots than buongiornos.  Stop off at charming Fiechter Alm for a snack and a drink at one of their umbrella-covered outdoor tables.  The only downside to this afternoon break is that, upon heading off again, you want to believe that St. Gertraud is just a short walk away.  In reality, you have only covered half of your descent and another 500 meters awaits you.  In St. Gertraud stay at wonderful Haus Elizabeth, a small B&B in Elizabeth’s private home.  The rooms are clean, the beds are terribly comfortable, and the breakfast is outstanding.  Eat dinner at the Ultnerhof Hotel.  As always, reserve your room and dinner seating ahead of time.  This is a very small village and it doesn’t take but one or two large hiking groups to fill it up.  

Day 5     St. Gertraud to Hotel Waldheim

I highly recommend today’s stage but you need to be prepared for a very long hike as you are looking at almost 1500 meters of ascent and descent.  It’s worthwhile to try to arrange a ride from the village up the road 2-3 kilometers to start your hike at the trailhead for Pilsberg Alm and your pass, Soyscharte.  This will reduce your walking time by 45 minutes or so which may not seem like much at the start of the day, but may seem like a lot around 5:00 pm.  If you prefer to bypass this section of walking, it is quite easy to take the bus around to the Martell Valley and your night’s destination.  If you choose the hiking option, on your way down from the pass you come upon another lovely refreshment stop, Soyalm.  Not at all like yesterday’s touristy alm, today’s is tranquil and authentic.  You can enjoy a glass of fresh cow’s milk as you rest your weary feet and legs.  The ending point of your descent is the road and the Holderle Cafe.  Don’t relax just yet because you still have about 1.5 kilometers of road walking to reach your final stopping point for the evening, Hotel Waldheim.  You’re not in a town here, just a wonderful hotel by the side of the road.  Enjoy the luxury and the food before you continue on your journey the next day.  

Fiechter Alm, above St. Gertraud

Day 6     Hotel Waldheim to Sulden

If you want to be a purist and hike every step of the way to Sulden, you will need two days to complete this stage.   But I didn’t find the first section of the walk from Hotel Waldheim up the Martell Valley to be terribly interesting and prefer, instead, to cover it in one day by taking the bus to the top of the valley at Enzianhutte.  At the bus stop, you will already be able to spot your trail and  Zufalhutte just a short distance up the mountain.  This makes for a very popular day hike with casual walkers on a beautiful day.  The fact is that you rarely meet Italians hiking a hut-to-hut long distance route, even in Italy.  Most prefer day hiking and the luxury of nicer hotels and restaurants in town.  Enzianhutte is a warm and appealing hut.  I have always wanted to spend a night here but it never seems to fall at the right place in the itinerary.  Continue your climb up to Madritsch Pass and take some time to enjoy the stunning views of the Konig-Spitze as you approach from the eastern side.  Today’s hike, especially close to the pass, allows you magnificent views of the the really “big guys” of the Stelvio.  This is fortunate because the terrain as you descend leaves something to be desired, being  desolate and scarred with ski lifts and associated equipment.  Hike as far as Schaubachhutte where you can take the cable car down to Sulden.  Sulden is a ski town with location but not much charm.  Stay at Hotel Garni Les Alpes, an excellent value with clean rooms, good beds, and a very good breakfast.  If you’re in the mood for a pizzeria, Sulden has a very good one, Roland’s Bistro.

Konig-Spitze

Day 7     Sulden to Trafoi

Start off your day by catching the chair lift from the northwest side of Sulden to the K2 hut.  Today’s hike is really nice and not too difficult, apart from one exposed section of ridge walking after you round the corner from the Tabaretta hut.  Thanks to the alpine clubs and all who maintain these trails, there are currently cables along this section.  The first time I hiked this stage, though, there was no such protection and, being a wimp regarding exposure, I had to summon the utmost amount of courage and concentration in order to get through it.  Trafoi is a pleasant little village in a peaceful and beautiful valley.  Stay and eat at appropriately named Hotel Bella Vista, home of 1970s ski champion, Gustav Thoni.  This hotel’s ski culture and alpine charm are on full display.

Road from Stelvio Pass

Day 8     Trafoi to Bormio

 Attaining the Stelvio Pass is a treat because of the elevation you achieve and the surrounding views.  The pass itself and the buildings there are pretty drab and full of tourists.  But the sights along the way and in the distance are simply spectacular.   The road to the pass, with its many hairpin turns, was built in 1825 by the Austrians.  It is now only kept open to vehicle traffic from June through October.  The better side to hike on is our side, the east side, passing by Furkelhutte.  You could even start your day from Trafoi with a chair lift to Furkelhutte, but since today is not long, I recommend you hike the entire way.  The path on the other side down towards Bormio is less interesting.  Better to catch the bus down and relax while the driver negotiates the turns.  Bormio is a great place to spend an extra day or two.  It is a charming ski town and summer resort for wealthy Italians and Europeans.  Its curved, narrow streets will take you by cafes, bakeries, cheese and wine stores, and plenty of restaurants.  Stay at Albergo Alpina for a comfortable, good value room in an ideal location.  For dinner, Al filo will not disappoint, but there are other good options to check out as well.  

Day 9     Bormio to Rifugio Pizzini

You are hopefully starting off your day feeling rested and refreshed after a day or two in Bormio.  Today is a long stage and you will need your energy.  The next two days are wonderful and will give you your best opportunity in the park to see wildlife, hopefully ibex and chamois among them.  Take the bus to the hamlet of Plazzola where your hiking begins through a parking lot and along an easy track.  If you want to shorten your walking time, hire one of the jeep shuttles that connect Valfurva with Baita del Pastore, several kilometers further up the track.  Our route follows the main righthand fork toward the Zebru Pass but there is an alternate path to consider which will take you to the dramatically-situated Rifugio Alpini at 2877 meters.  If you take this path, I recommend spending the night here and continuing on your way the next day.  Your overnight destination on the main trail is welcoming Rifugio Pizzini which was completely restored in 2003.

Day 10     Rifugio Pizzini to St. Caterina Valfurva

You can relax today and enjoy your long gradual descent through the Forni Valley.  You will pass by the Forni glacier, one of the largest in the Alps.  Rifugio Branca affords some of the best glacier views of the trip.  You might want to stop for lunch at friendly Rifugio Forni.  Before you know it, you will arrive at the village of St. Caterina Valfurva.  Stay at excellent value Hotel Garni Thurwieser close to the center of town.  This is a small ski town so keep your expectations low regarding food but La Tana has tasty pizza and other specialties from the region.

Day 11     St. Caterina Valfurva to Pezzo

This is a great stage to finish up a fantastic tour.  It is a long but easy walk over the Gavia Pass to the quiet little village of Pezzo.  There is minibus service to the larger Ponte di Legno where you can catch a long distance bus to Milan or whatever your next destination may be.  The minibus does not run often so be sure to check the departure times before you head off on your hike today.  Stay the night at Hotel Garni Pegra. 

Links

www.stelviopark.bz.it/en/nationalpark/wandern/wandervorschlaege/