Tour of Monte Rosa
Duration: 9 Days
Difficulty: Difficult
As long-distance hiking tours in the Alps go, this tour is relatively new as it was completed in 1997. This is a 100 mile circuit that goes around the glorious Monte Rosa massif which sits right on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Monte Rosa means Red Mountain and it seems anything but red when you first see it. The name supposedly comes from the rose colored hue that is cast on the mountain at dawn. I love this tour. It’s true that I could say that about every one of the tours on this site, but the Tour of Monte Rosa captivates my heart in a special way. I think it is because you visit several charming Italian valleys and villages that are not overrun with tourists. And you pass through the famed mountaineering resort of Zermatt, one of the most spectacular areas of Switzerland. I have to give credit to the travel author, Marcia Lieberman, for introducing this particular route to me and others in her 1999 article entitled A Comfy Way Around the Mountain. Her route follows trails that avoid some of the slopes scarred by ski runs and some of the more spartan huts and, instead, takes you through villages on the Italian side of the mountain.
Monte Rosa
Day 0 Zermatt
If ever there is a hiking tour where you want to come early to the starting town for a few extra days of hiking and exploration, this is the one. Zermatt is almost completely surrounded by the high mountains of the Pennine Alps. Monte Rosa is but one of the “big ones”, the others being Dom, Lyskamm, Weisshorn, and the Matterhorn. This is a day hiker’s paradise. If I had to select a dozen of the most beautiful, classic Alps day hikes in all of Europe, two or three of them would be based out of here. There is no vehicle traffic allowed in Zermatt which is another plus. You must catch the train farther down the valley in Tasch to arrive here. There is one big downside to this quaint Swiss town which must be mentioned. It is VERY popular and it is PACKED with tourists. But to help deal with this irritation, just avoid the main street through the center of town where 90% of the day tourists spend their time. Stay at inviting Hotel Bahnhof just across the street from the bahnhof (train station). Switzerland is outrageously expensive but this little hotel is as reasonable as it gets for a nice room. There is also a dormitory on the top floor for those wanting a more budget option. I can recommend restaurant Chez Heini for more gourmet fare and Ross-Stall right next door to Hotel Bahnhof for what I call tasty food. For an easy day hike and wonderful outdoor lunch with views of the Matterhorn, head up the mountain a little ways to the Findlerhof restaurant.
Lunch above Zermatt with views of the Matterhorn
Day 1 Zermatt to Cheneil
Today is more an adventure in lift riding than it is a true hiking day. But what delightful lift riding it is if the weather happens to go your way. Take the Klein Matterhorn cable car up from Zermatt and cross the glacier towards the Italian Testa Griglia lift. It is officially recommended to hire a guide for this glacier crossing. The Mountain Guides Office will suggest that you do so. We checked with a couple of knowledgeable locals who assured us that this was not necessary and we, indeed, found that it was not a technical crossing. You want to make sure to stay on course and not stray into areas that might have crevasses. And you want to watch for skiers at the stage where you cross a ski run. But in less than an hour you arrive at the Testa Griglia lift station. I’m always in favor of taking the lift to avoid a long descent (maybe I can still be doing this when I’m 90 if I’m good to my knees). Two gondola stages on the Italian side will take you down to the ski town of Cervinia. Catch the bus which goes down the valley to Valtournenche where you can hire a taxi for the additional 7 kilometers to Cheneil, a small grouping of old farmhouses on the side of the mountain. This is where you will find charming Albergo Panorama Al Bich and where the true hiking begins. I like to stay here because it is a more serene, charming option than any of the affordable hotels in Valtournenche and it gives you a jump on your climb to the pass the next day.
Cheneil
Day 2 Cheneil to St. Jacques
The path from Cheneil to Colle di Nana is signposted and easy to follow. You reach the col without difficulty and 1000 meters of descent later, you reach the tiny and pleasant hamlet of St. Jacques. This is at the end of the road for the Ayas Valley and the smallest town you will be in for this tour. You’ll see just a few houses and shops and a hotel or two. Enjoy the setting and the sound of the river running forcefully through the middle of town. Stay at Hotel Genzianella. It’s not anything spectacular but definitely satisfactory and provides a good breakfast.
Chapel in St. Jacques
Day 3 St. Jacques to Gressoney St. Jean
Today’s hike actually leaves from the ski resort of Champoluc about 4 kilometers up the valley. Road walking is pretty boring and tiring so catch the morning bus to Champoluc instead. A cable car from Champoluc to Crest will get you another few hundred meters along your path. This is a wonderful stage and not too difficult. Just be aware that the downhill of 1300 meters is a little longer than some. The trail brings you the charming and beautiful town of Gressoney St. Jean, my favorite of the Tour of Monte Rosa. With its cobblestones, flowers along winding streets, and freshly displayed fruits and vegetables outside shops, you will see why I like it so much. Stay at Albergo Alpenrose. Eat in the cozy upstairs dining room of Restaurant Nordkapp.
Day 4 Gressoney St. Jean to Alagna
Today you hike to Alagna, a lovely Walser village. The Walsers were a Germanic-speaking tribe who settled in Switzerland and this region of northern Italy. You will notice the typical Walser architecture of dark wood homes with horizontal wooden slats around the outside for drying hay. Catch an early morning bus to Stafel, a lift station just up the valley. The cable car will take you to the highest station called Passo die Salati where you begin today’s hike, almost all of which at this point will be downhill. I sometimes like to hike the uphill portion of a stage even when a lift is available but today is not the day to do it. A good portion of the ascending trail is dirt road which passes through unattractive terrain used to service the surrounding ski runs. You will have great views of Monte Rosa at the top of the pass. Not too long after leaving the lift you reach Rifugio Guglielmina which makes for a wonderful cappuccino stop. Weather allowing, sit outside on the front deck and take in the views. It also makes for a good lunch spot (reservations recommended because it’s popular for day hikers) but it is hard to justify lunch when the majority of today’s hiking still lies ahead. You have two choices for your descent. You can hike part of the way down to Oltu where a cable car takes you down to Alagna. I would normally not hesitate to recommend this but, in this case, I might suggest hiking all the way down through the Valle d’Otro to the Sesia Valley and the town of Alagna. This hike is so beautiful that I hate for anyone to miss it, even though we are talking about 1700 meters of descent. Consider your two choices carefully because I don’t want you to take my name in vain when you finally reach the valley floor and your knees are screaming. If you happen to be hiking this tour in the opposite direction, I definitely suggest you hike the entire ascent through the Valle d’Otro and then enjoy the long cable car ride down the other side. In Alagna, stay at the stately Monte Rosa Hotel in the middle of town where you will likely be greeted by one of the longtime owners, Peter or Carina. The prices are a little high but the hotel is nice. Eat a wonderful, hearty dinner at Pizzeria Dir und Don. You’re bound to have a good appetite and the food here is varied and tasty. I always opt for the pizza. Make a reservation in order to avoid a wait in the high season.
Making a new friend
Day 5 Alagna to Macugnaga
This is a wonderful stage but also a very long one taking a full 11 hours of hiking time. I believe it is the longest stage of any I have ever done in the Alps so prepare yourself for some very tired feet and legs. A good portion of the path follows an old stone military mule path put in place during World War I. The only way I recommend walking this stage is to get a very early start ( around 6 a.m.) and take a short taxi ride to the end of the road to get a jump start on the long journey. If you decide not to hike this stage you can take a series of buses to Macugnaga but be aware that it takes a good portion of the day and requires a few changes. Stay and eat at the Dream Hotel just a few minutes walk from the center of town.
Day 6 Macugnaga to Saas-Fee
You pass back into Switzerland today and will be grateful to see the cable car which takes you out of the very steep valley almost all the way to the Monte Moro Pass. I don’t find today’s hike to be particularly beautiful but it is interesting. The terrain on the Swiss side is barren and rocky. You descend to the Mattmark dam and then take one of the frequent afternoon buses to Saas-Fee, a pleasant Swiss ski town but one which is always in the shadow of it’s big sister to the west, Zermatt. Saas-Fee, like many other ski towns in the Alps, has suffered from the shrinkage of its glaciers over the last 20 years. For those of us who have been coming to the Alps for decades, the difference is dramatic and sad. It has had a noticeable impact on the beauty of the town as well as the winter tourist economy. Stay at Hotel Tenne and ask for a bed in their dormitory downstairs if you are trying not to bust the budget. It is always a shock to the system to come back into Switzerland and its very high prices after having travelled in Italy. Very outgoing and efficient Emanuella, the long term owner, will hopefully greet you. The breakfast served here is probably the best of the tour. Saas-Fee boasts several very good restaurants these days and they seem to change so check the internet and take your pick. Or if you don’t want to spend too much money on dinner, eat in at Hotel Tenne and order a big plate of rosti, the Swiss version of hash brown potatoes with cheese or ham or other ingredients added in if you wish.
Day 7 Saas-Fee to Grachen
I rate the entire Tour of Monte Rosa difficult primarily because of two stages, the very long day into Macugnaga and today. Today is no where close to 11 hours of hiking but is still long at 7-8 hours. Don’t underestimate the time it takes, especially if you want to catch the chair lift at the end of the day from Hannigalp down to Grachen, saving you a significant 500 meters. The chair lift closes before 5:00 so be sure to check the schedule before you depart. I know this from personal experience, having underestimated the hiking time required and literally jogging, pack and all, the final 30 minutes to catch the last chair. The stage is a classic Alps balcony route meaning you hike along the side of the mountain at a relatively constant elevation with the valley off to one side. It is difficult primarily due to the seemingly endless number of semi-circular contours that you make in the second half of the day. These sections have a bit of exposure. While not at all technical, they do require an even headedness. The hike is stunning and your efforts will be rewarded with beautiful views of the Fletschhorn and surrounding peaks the entire day. Marcia Lieberman calls this stage one of the classic day hikes of the Alps and I agree. If you don’t want to tackle this trail, there is still another hiking option for you today which gets you along in the same direction. Take the early morning bus from Saas-Fee to Saas Grund and hike the balcony route to Gspon. There you catch the cable car down to Stalden where another bus gets you across the valley floor and up the mountainside to Grachen. Yes, it’s a lot of additional transportation for one day’s hike but it might be worth it. This route is also beautiful and doesn’t have the exposure that the former has. It is hard to find reasonably priced lodging in Switzerland but there is a good option in Grachen called the Hotel Garni Abendruh. It is nothing fancy but it is clean, comfortable, and conveniently located. Eat at restaurant Baergji-Alp.
Day 8 Grachen to Europa Hut
The two final stages allowing you to complete this circular tour and finish in Zermatt have only been accessible for a little more than a decade with the opening of the Europa Hut in 1999. Before then, the balcony path from Grachen to Zermatt through the Matter Valley was in poor condition and too long for the average hiker to complete in a day. Now the path, although exposed in parts, is in excellent condition with metal cables where needed and a nice Swiss hut to break the last miles into two reasonable stages.
The Matterhorn
Day 9 Europa Hut to Zermatt
Today is a little less arduous than Day 8. You can enjoy the walk without the added stress of encountering exposed sections. You will see now-familiar Zermatt and the surrounding peaks ahead of you. Hopefully you have already booked at Hotel Bahnhof and perhaps you are starting to taste your upcoming dinner at Chez Heini.
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